烏飯(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)原叫(jiao)青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)飯(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan),它的出(chu)現,與道(dao)(dao)(dao)家(jia)服食(shi)求長生(sheng)的實(shi)踐(jian)有(you)關,李時(shi)珍《本草綱目·谷部》卷二五說:“此飯(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)乃仙家(jia)服食(shi)之(zhi)(zhi)法(fa),而今之(zhi)(zhi)釋家(jia)多于四月八日造之(zhi)(zhi),以(yi)供佛耳。造者又入柿葉(xie)、白楊葉(xie)數十(shi)枝以(yi)助(zhu)色(se),或又加(jia)生(sheng)鐵(tie)一塊者,止(zhi)知取其(qi)上(shang)色(se),不知乃服食(shi)家(jia)所(suo)忌也。”道(dao)(dao)(dao)家(jia)典籍《三洞珠囊》說:“王褒,字子登,漢王陵(ling)七世(shi)孫,服青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)飯(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan),趨步峻峰如飛鳥。”王褒是西漢宣(xuan)帝(di)時(shi)人,說漢代已(yi)有(you)人服食(shi)青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)飯(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan),據(ju)尚不充(chong)分(fen)。南(nan)朝(chao)梁(liang)陶弘景《真誥·稽神樞四》:“霍(huo)山(shan)中有(you)鄧伯(bo)原王玄(xuan)甫(fu),受服青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)石飯(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)吞日丹景之(zhi)(zhi)法(fa)。”大約南(nan)北(bei)朝(chao)時(shi),道(dao)(dao)(dao)教徒開始服食(shi)。唐宋(song)(song)時(shi)期,服食(shi)青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)飯(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)的人不少(shao),杜甫(fu)《贈(zeng)李白》:“豈無(wu)青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)飯(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan),使我顏色(se)好。”青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)飯(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)又叫(jiao)“青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)稻(dao)(dao)”,唐元稹《和樂天贈(zeng)吳丹》:“萬過(guo)《黃(huang)庭(ting)經》,一食(shi)青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)稻(dao)(dao)。”張(zhang)賁《以(yi)青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)飯(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)分(fen)送襲美魯望因成(cheng)一絕(jue)》:“誰屑瓊瑤事青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing),舊傳名品(pin)出(chu)華陽。”皮日休(xiu)《江(jiang)南(nan)道(dao)(dao)(dao)中懷茅山(shan)廣文南(nan)陽博(bo)士(shi)(shi)》:“半日始齋青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)飯(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan),移時(shi)空印白檀香(xiang)。”陸龜(gui)蒙《四月十(shi)五日道(dao)(dao)(dao)室書事寄襲美》云:“烏飯(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)新炊芼(mao)臛香(xiang),道(dao)(dao)(dao)家(jia)齋日以(yi)為常。”宋(song)(song)黃(huang)庭(ting)堅《陳榮緒惠示(shi)之(zhi)(zhi)字韻推獎過(guo)實(shi)非所(suo)敢當輒次高韻》之(zhi)(zhi)三:“饑(ji)蒙青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)飯(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan),寒贈(zeng)紫(zi)陁尼。”宋(song)(song)陸游《小(xiao)憩長生(sheng)觀飯(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)己遂行(xing)》:“道(dao)(dao)(dao)士(shi)(shi)青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)飯(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan),先(xian)生(sheng)烏角巾。”謝(xie)無(wu)量《西湖旅興懷伯(bo)兄五十(shi)韻》:“野(ye)寺青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)飯(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan)(fan),江(jiang)湖白打錢。”
據現存典籍(ji),梁(liang)代陶弘景較早提到(dao)它的(de)做(zuo)法,他(ta)有《登真隱訣》一書,介紹名為(wei)“青(qing)精乾坤石(shi)飯(fan)”的(de)制(zhi)作(zuo)之(zhi)法:以(yi)(yi)生(sheng)白(bai)粳米一斛(hu)五(wu)斗(dou)舂治,淅取(qu)一斛(hu)二(er)斗(dou)。用(yong)南燭(zhu)木葉五(wu)斤,燥者(zhe)三斤亦(yi)可(ke),雜莖皮煮取(qu)汁,極(ji)令(ling)清冷,以(yi)(yi)溲米,米釋炊之(zhi)。從四月(yue)至(zhi)八月(yue)末,用(yong)新生(sheng)葉,色(se)皆深,九(jiu)月(yue)至(zhi)三月(yue),用(yong)宿葉,色(se)皆淺,可(ke)隨時進退其(qi)斤兩。又采軟枝(zhi)莖皮,于(yu)石(shi)臼中搗碎。令(ling)四五(wu)月(yue)中作(zuo),可(ke)用(yong)十許斤熟舂,以(yi)(yi)斛(hu)二(er)斗(dou)湯浸染,得一斛(hu)也。比來(lai)只以(yi)(yi)水(shui)漬一二(er)宿,不必用(yong)湯。漉而飲之(zhi),初米正作(zuo)綠色(se),蒸過便(bian)如紺色(se)。其(qi)色(se)不好,亦(yi)可(ke)淘(tao)去,更以(yi)(yi)新汁漬之(zhi)。灑瀖者(zhe)用(yong)此(ci)汁,惟令(ling)飯(fan)作(zuo)正青(qing)色(se)乃止(zhi)。高(gao)格曝干,當三蒸曝,每(mei)一燥輒以(yi)(yi)青(qing)汁溲,令(ling)浥浥。每(mei)日可(ke)服二(er)升,勿復血食(shi)。填胃補髓,消滅三蟲。
《本草綱目·谷部(bu)》引《上元寶經》:子(zi)(zi)服(fu)草木之王(wang),氣與(yu)神通(tong);子(zi)(zi)食(shi)青燭(zhu)之津,命不復殞(yun)。此之謂也。今茅山道士(shi)亦作此飯,或以寄遠。重蒸過食(shi)之,甚(shen)香甘也。
道(dao)教徒不僅制作(zuo)出這種用于養生的(de)青(qing)精飯(fan)(fan),還特(te)(te)地為這種飯(fan)(fan)起了(le)個(ge)名稱——“青(qing)精乾(qian)石飯(fan)(fan)”,特(te)(te)造一“”字,以(yi)示其(qi)特(te)(te)別。宋人蘇頌說:“凡內外諸書并無此(ci)字,惟(wei)施于此(ci)飯(fan)(fan)之(zhi)名耳。”原始的(de)“青(qing)精飯(fan)(fan)”的(de)成分(fen)中,還包(bao)括(kuo)“乾(qian)石”,什么是(shi)(shi)“乾(qian)石”?大約是(shi)(shi)石脂之(zhi)類的(de)東西。
道家(jia)另有“青(qing)(qing)精(jing)石(shi)飯”,是用(yong)青(qing)(qing)石(shi)脂和米浸水搗為丸狀,用(yong)白開水吞服,據說服一二(er)丸人(ren)即(ji)不饑,是道家(jia)修(xiu)煉辟谷術(shu)者(zhe)所(suo)用(yong),流傳不廣。
在(zai)傳(chuan)承過(guo)程中,人們摒棄(qi)了石(shi)脂,而僅(jin)用植物之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)汁煮米(mi)制(zhi)作(zuo)(zuo)青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)(jing)飯(fan)(fan)(fan)。唐宋(song)(song)以后的青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)(jing)飯(fan)(fan)(fan),一般都(dou)是指這種飯(fan)(fan)(fan)。青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)(jing)飯(fan)(fan)(fan)的“青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)(jing)”兩字甚值得(de)玩(wan)味(wei)。在(zai)古(gu)代的五行系統中,青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)是東方之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)色(se),與春天相應,春天是陽氣上升、萬(wan)物長(chang)養(yang)、欣(xin)欣(xin)向榮(rong)的季節(jie),道(dao)家之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)徒制(zhi)作(zuo)(zuo)青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)(jing)飯(fan)(fan)(fan),蓋取(qu)青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)色(se)長(chang)養(yang)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)意,“精(jing)(jing)”則表示(shi)精(jing)(jing)華,“青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)(jing)”乃取(qu)青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)陽之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)精(jing)(jing)華之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)意。陶(tao)弘景強調(diao)“惟令(ling)飯(fan)(fan)(fan)作(zuo)(zuo)正青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)色(se)乃止(zhi)”可為堅。此飯(fan)(fan)(fan)原非黑色(se),而為深青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)色(se),民間所(suo)造之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)(jing)飯(fan)(fan)(fan),也(ye)常取(qu)青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)色(se),如(ru)宋(song)(song)阮閱《詩話(hua)總龜·詠物門下(xia)》:楊桐,葉細冬(dong)青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing),臨水生者尤茂,居人遇寒食(shi),采其葉染飯(fan)(fan)(fan),色(se)青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)而有光,食(shi)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)資陽氣,謂之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)楊桐飯(fan)(fan)(fan)。道(dao)家所(suo)謂“青(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)飯(fan)(fan)(fan)”。
另一宋人(ren)林洪在(zai)《山(shan)家清供(gong)》卷上(shang)中也說(shuo):按(an)《本草(cao)》:“南(nan)燭木,今名(ming)黑(hei)飯(fan)草(cao),又名(ming)旱蓮(lian)草(cao)。”即(ji)青(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)也,采枝葉搗汁(zhi),浸上(shang)白(bai)好粳米,不拘(ju)多少,候一二時,蒸(zheng)飯(fan)曝干,堅而碧色(se)(se)(se)(se),收貯(zhu)。青(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)飯(fan)的(de)顏(yan)色(se)(se)(se)(se),阮閱說(shuo)“色(se)(se)(se)(se)青(qing)(qing)(qing)”,而林洪自己制作(zuo)過青(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)飯(fan),也說(shuo)“碧色(se)(se)(se)(se)”。在(zai)唐代(dai)就(jiu)有人(ren)稱青(qing)(qing)(qing)精(jing)飯(fan)為(wei)(wei)(wei)“烏(wu)飯(fan)”,可(ke)能是因為(wei)(wei)(wei)這種飯(fan)的(de)顏(yan)色(se)(se)(se)(se)深青(qing)(qing)(qing),類似黑(hei)色(se)(se)(se)(se)所造(zao)成。也可(ke)能是誤以(yi)“青(qing)(qing)(qing)”為(wei)(wei)(wei)“黑(hei)”所致。青(qing)(qing)(qing)之(zhi)—字,作(zuo)為(wei)(wei)(wei)顏(yan)色(se)(se)(se)(se)詞,同時可(ke)作(zuo)“黑(hei)色(se)(se)(se)(se)”解。青(qing)(qing)(qing)的(de)這種用法由來已(yi)久,《尚書·禹(yu)貢》:“(梁州)厥土(tu)青(qing)(qing)(qing)黎(li)。厥田(tian)惟下上(shang)。”唐孔穎達(da)疏引王肅曰:“青(qing)(qing)(qing),黑(hei)色(se)(se)(se)(se)。”后世以(yi)青(qing)(qing)(qing)表黑(hei)色(se)(se)(se)(se)甚普遍(bian),如李白(bai)《將進酒》:“君不見(jian)高堂明鏡悲白(bai)發,朝如青(qing)(qing)(qing)絲(si)暮成雪(xue)。”“青(qing)(qing)(qing)絲(si)”即(ji)喻指黑(hei)發。
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